Tuesday, December 30, 2008
May 27, 2008 - Redondela to Pontevedra
This is close to my journal entry but edited to delete personal comments.
Bad start to the day. Karin and I had a falling out and when we left the refugio, she took off - turns out she was heading in the wrong direction. Joe went after her and brought her back but she and Joe kept a super fast pace and I couldn't keep up. I was pretty far behind and thought maybe I would get a chance to walk alone that day but Ray eventually stayed back. I don't know if he chose to go slower or was instructed to stay back with me. In any event, Ray and I did our own Camino and it was far and away the best day yet!
We walked along little villages that had tiny streets that twisted and turned - all up hill. We did our first real climb which was really tough but throught a forest. The forests here are unbelievable, so luch and dense - almost tropical looking. At the top of the mountain you could see the ocean and a bridge as well as boats and ships. Truly awesome! A group of Spanish guys asked us to take their picture at the top and they took ours. The Spanish guys looked like day hikers, they had no packs and were even wearing good smelling men's cologne.
The descent had one real tricky spot. The road was out and we had to take a short but very steep descent thru deep mud. I could not have made it without my stick. Ray did it carrying a grocery bag in each hand - truly wonderous! (The morning plan was that he and Karin would switch off carrying the bags).
After the descent we entered Arcade, a seashore resort town. We stopped at a bar and I had a cafe con leche with the free cookies that come with it. I love cafe con leche!
On the way out of town, this was so cool, there was an old lady in the regional dress chasing a little dog with her pitchfork. This was all happening in another totally scenic place.
Our second climb of the day was great fun. It was steep and we had to walk on stones thru a flowing stream. Extreme fun! Descent was through a forest and more beautiful countryside.
We arrived at the refugio before it opened so we headed to a little bar across the street. There, we saw the Brits and a Canadian girl who was at the refugio the night before. I had a couple cervazas and the bar gave us each a small but free bowl of Spanish rice and pulpo. It tasted so good.
Joe and Karin eventually showed up. They hit the town a while before and went looking for a post office to mail back some of their extra gear. I opted to just leave my stuff behind at the refugio. I didn't want to deal with finding a post office, a box to send the stuff and all that. So I hope someone will make use of my poncho and rain pants. I also left some makeup and my fel shoe soles. Every ounce counts!
The refugio finally opened and we all headed over. Even though the refugio was on a main highway, it was built on higher ground and you couldn't see the highway from inside, unless you wanted to! There were nice mountain views. The refugio was new and had a washer and dryer as well as a cafe con leche machine!
Karin and I talked about our issues but I felt something had clearly changed between us. At least we could all finish this thing in a cordial manner.
After showering, the two old guys who ran the refugio gave us a free glass of homemade port. It was great and the old guys were real characters - even though they didn't speak a word of English. It was so great to use the washer and dryer, to have truly clean clothes! I shared the laundry with Maia, a Brazilian woman, so it only cost each of us 6 Euros. So well worth it though.
When Joe and Karin were out about the town, he saw a Chinese restaurant that had advertised a multi-course meal for something like 6 Euros and that's where they wanted to eat dinner. I'm thinking why Chinese food - we are in Spain, let's find some Spanish food. But I promised myself I would not ruffle any feathers that night so I was like - whatever!
Turns out the earlier price was for lunch. Dinner was 8 something Euros. The meal itself was kind of funny, it was a multi-course meal and we ate it in like 15 minutes or so. The food was adewuate but my main course was awful, I couldn't even eat it - the fish was foul.
Pontevedra was an ugly town. The little bar across the street was the coolest place in town. Would have been fun to have eaten dinner there. Oh well.
Additional Thoughts:
Ray and I had lunch on some big rocks in the forest. Since he had all the groceries, we ate very well!
Dill grows on the side of the road like weeds here. We saw a few people harvesting it into giant baskets.
I left my stick at the bar in Arcade and realized it after we climbed up a very steep street. Ray waited there while I headed back for the stick and then had to do that climb all over again!
This was far and away the best scenery of all. We had it all, farms, fields, oceans, mountains and even a scenic town.
We also had a little bit of every kind of weather, though for the most part, the day was fairly sunny.
Bad start to the day. Karin and I had a falling out and when we left the refugio, she took off - turns out she was heading in the wrong direction. Joe went after her and brought her back but she and Joe kept a super fast pace and I couldn't keep up. I was pretty far behind and thought maybe I would get a chance to walk alone that day but Ray eventually stayed back. I don't know if he chose to go slower or was instructed to stay back with me. In any event, Ray and I did our own Camino and it was far and away the best day yet!
We walked along little villages that had tiny streets that twisted and turned - all up hill. We did our first real climb which was really tough but throught a forest. The forests here are unbelievable, so luch and dense - almost tropical looking. At the top of the mountain you could see the ocean and a bridge as well as boats and ships. Truly awesome! A group of Spanish guys asked us to take their picture at the top and they took ours. The Spanish guys looked like day hikers, they had no packs and were even wearing good smelling men's cologne.
The descent had one real tricky spot. The road was out and we had to take a short but very steep descent thru deep mud. I could not have made it without my stick. Ray did it carrying a grocery bag in each hand - truly wonderous! (The morning plan was that he and Karin would switch off carrying the bags).
After the descent we entered Arcade, a seashore resort town. We stopped at a bar and I had a cafe con leche with the free cookies that come with it. I love cafe con leche!
On the way out of town, this was so cool, there was an old lady in the regional dress chasing a little dog with her pitchfork. This was all happening in another totally scenic place.
Our second climb of the day was great fun. It was steep and we had to walk on stones thru a flowing stream. Extreme fun! Descent was through a forest and more beautiful countryside.
We arrived at the refugio before it opened so we headed to a little bar across the street. There, we saw the Brits and a Canadian girl who was at the refugio the night before. I had a couple cervazas and the bar gave us each a small but free bowl of Spanish rice and pulpo. It tasted so good.
Joe and Karin eventually showed up. They hit the town a while before and went looking for a post office to mail back some of their extra gear. I opted to just leave my stuff behind at the refugio. I didn't want to deal with finding a post office, a box to send the stuff and all that. So I hope someone will make use of my poncho and rain pants. I also left some makeup and my fel shoe soles. Every ounce counts!
The refugio finally opened and we all headed over. Even though the refugio was on a main highway, it was built on higher ground and you couldn't see the highway from inside, unless you wanted to! There were nice mountain views. The refugio was new and had a washer and dryer as well as a cafe con leche machine!
Karin and I talked about our issues but I felt something had clearly changed between us. At least we could all finish this thing in a cordial manner.
After showering, the two old guys who ran the refugio gave us a free glass of homemade port. It was great and the old guys were real characters - even though they didn't speak a word of English. It was so great to use the washer and dryer, to have truly clean clothes! I shared the laundry with Maia, a Brazilian woman, so it only cost each of us 6 Euros. So well worth it though.
When Joe and Karin were out about the town, he saw a Chinese restaurant that had advertised a multi-course meal for something like 6 Euros and that's where they wanted to eat dinner. I'm thinking why Chinese food - we are in Spain, let's find some Spanish food. But I promised myself I would not ruffle any feathers that night so I was like - whatever!
Turns out the earlier price was for lunch. Dinner was 8 something Euros. The meal itself was kind of funny, it was a multi-course meal and we ate it in like 15 minutes or so. The food was adewuate but my main course was awful, I couldn't even eat it - the fish was foul.
Pontevedra was an ugly town. The little bar across the street was the coolest place in town. Would have been fun to have eaten dinner there. Oh well.
Additional Thoughts:
Ray and I had lunch on some big rocks in the forest. Since he had all the groceries, we ate very well!
Dill grows on the side of the road like weeds here. We saw a few people harvesting it into giant baskets.
I left my stick at the bar in Arcade and realized it after we climbed up a very steep street. Ray waited there while I headed back for the stick and then had to do that climb all over again!
This was far and away the best scenery of all. We had it all, farms, fields, oceans, mountains and even a scenic town.
We also had a little bit of every kind of weather, though for the most part, the day was fairly sunny.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Camino - Porrino to Redondela, May 26, 2008
This is pretty much what I wrote in my journal:
We left Porrino late, around 9 a.m. It rained all day long. My rain jacket really is waterproof but there is no ventilation and the inside was dripping with sweat.
This was a very pleasant walk. We climbed a mountain but much of it was on a narrow country road. It was all very scenic. There were many mountains off to our right with dark clouds dripping over them. Little villages along the mountains, so picturesque! Photos will never capture it.
We did walk on some paths, one was so amazingly steep the only way I could get up it was by taking tiny baby steps. On the way down the mountain there was a very steep decline, then we came upon another very scenic road - grape vines, tiny plot farms and beautiful architecture.
Redondela is near the sea, it's a very old medieval city. The refugio is a 15th century manor house. Just awesome!
We made very good time today and got to the refugio early. We opted not to shower first, rather we headed out to find a late lunch. It was siesta time and our options were limited. We found an open bar where our choice was a tamale, a garbanzo dish or a sandwich. I got the sandwich which turned out to be grilled ham and cheese, very tasty! Also had a cafe con leche and a cerveza. Next we headed to an internet cafe where I e-mailed Jon some tidbits of our adventure.
We were all pretty tired and had no desire to go back out in the rain so we decided to make dinner at the refugio. We invited a French woman we met on the road when we were all taking a little break from the pouring rain at a covered bus stop in the middle of nowhere. The French woman had a horrible bruise on her face, she had fallen earlier. She is an older lady and does various Caminos while her husband stays home.
Karin cooked. We had salad, pasta with meat and onion sauce as well as beans and carrots. I bought bread, box wine and dessert - which was yummo - Neopolitans and chocolate.
We met two British couples and chatted and drank wine with them until late in the night. We will likely see them tomorrow in Pontevedra. They were fun!
I'm writing this in the dining room. Once again, I'm the last one standing! I'm happier than I've been in a long time, maybe ever! Today decided I need to lighten my burden. If I can't ship the stuff home, I'm leaving it. I know I might be throwing out a lot of money but I need to free myself of things I don't need. A good rule to live by as well.
Real life seems so far away, almost like last week is a distant memory. Here, roosters grow all morning. Church bells ring on the hour in the villages. I carry what I need, wear the same clothes over and over and carry my meals in my pack. It is just so good!
Additional Thoughts:
I'm the slow and steady type so this day, I decided I would continue to walk whenever my companions took a break for equipment, bathroom, etc. with the thought that they would catch up with me. The first time I did this, I was beginning to get worried because they didn't arrive even after I slowed my pace. I decided to wait for them at the little bus stop where we met the French lady. On our way down the mountain, I again kept going while my companions took a bathroom break at a garden center. When enough time had passed and I didn't see them, I took a break and sat on a stone wall to wait for them but when they again didn't arrive, I decided I needed to keep on moving. When I reached Redondela, I sat on a curb and again waited until they finally appeared. I realized how much I enjoyed walking alone, at my own pace. There was such a sense of freedom, I didn't feel rushed. I was able to just enjoy the walk. I was surpised at how long I waited for this speedy group to catch up and it was a sharp reminder of how much time is wasted on rest and other types of stops!
I'm kind of amazed that I went all day without eating lunch at lunchtime. It was probably close to four when we finally ate lunch at the bar near the Marina District in Redondela!
We left Porrino late, around 9 a.m. It rained all day long. My rain jacket really is waterproof but there is no ventilation and the inside was dripping with sweat.
This was a very pleasant walk. We climbed a mountain but much of it was on a narrow country road. It was all very scenic. There were many mountains off to our right with dark clouds dripping over them. Little villages along the mountains, so picturesque! Photos will never capture it.
We did walk on some paths, one was so amazingly steep the only way I could get up it was by taking tiny baby steps. On the way down the mountain there was a very steep decline, then we came upon another very scenic road - grape vines, tiny plot farms and beautiful architecture.
Redondela is near the sea, it's a very old medieval city. The refugio is a 15th century manor house. Just awesome!
We made very good time today and got to the refugio early. We opted not to shower first, rather we headed out to find a late lunch. It was siesta time and our options were limited. We found an open bar where our choice was a tamale, a garbanzo dish or a sandwich. I got the sandwich which turned out to be grilled ham and cheese, very tasty! Also had a cafe con leche and a cerveza. Next we headed to an internet cafe where I e-mailed Jon some tidbits of our adventure.
We were all pretty tired and had no desire to go back out in the rain so we decided to make dinner at the refugio. We invited a French woman we met on the road when we were all taking a little break from the pouring rain at a covered bus stop in the middle of nowhere. The French woman had a horrible bruise on her face, she had fallen earlier. She is an older lady and does various Caminos while her husband stays home.
Karin cooked. We had salad, pasta with meat and onion sauce as well as beans and carrots. I bought bread, box wine and dessert - which was yummo - Neopolitans and chocolate.
We met two British couples and chatted and drank wine with them until late in the night. We will likely see them tomorrow in Pontevedra. They were fun!
I'm writing this in the dining room. Once again, I'm the last one standing! I'm happier than I've been in a long time, maybe ever! Today decided I need to lighten my burden. If I can't ship the stuff home, I'm leaving it. I know I might be throwing out a lot of money but I need to free myself of things I don't need. A good rule to live by as well.
Real life seems so far away, almost like last week is a distant memory. Here, roosters grow all morning. Church bells ring on the hour in the villages. I carry what I need, wear the same clothes over and over and carry my meals in my pack. It is just so good!
Additional Thoughts:
I'm the slow and steady type so this day, I decided I would continue to walk whenever my companions took a break for equipment, bathroom, etc. with the thought that they would catch up with me. The first time I did this, I was beginning to get worried because they didn't arrive even after I slowed my pace. I decided to wait for them at the little bus stop where we met the French lady. On our way down the mountain, I again kept going while my companions took a bathroom break at a garden center. When enough time had passed and I didn't see them, I took a break and sat on a stone wall to wait for them but when they again didn't arrive, I decided I needed to keep on moving. When I reached Redondela, I sat on a curb and again waited until they finally appeared. I realized how much I enjoyed walking alone, at my own pace. There was such a sense of freedom, I didn't feel rushed. I was able to just enjoy the walk. I was surpised at how long I waited for this speedy group to catch up and it was a sharp reminder of how much time is wasted on rest and other types of stops!
I'm kind of amazed that I went all day without eating lunch at lunchtime. It was probably close to four when we finally ate lunch at the bar near the Marina District in Redondela!
Friday, December 12, 2008
Photos - Tui to Porrino
Leaving Tui
The wildlife preserve
St. Telmo's Shrine
The firehouse at the industrial park
This bar showed up not a moment too soon!
Nearing Porrino.
Seems everyone kept at least a few sheep
or chickens in the yard
This mother figure was in a playground
across from the refugio
Scenes from Porrino
Ray and his bowl of wine!
Toasting another great day!
The wildlife preserve
St. Telmo's Shrine
The firehouse at the industrial park
This bar showed up not a moment too soon!
Nearing Porrino.
Seems everyone kept at least a few sheep
or chickens in the yard
This mother figure was in a playground
across from the refugio
Scenes from Porrino
Ray and his bowl of wine!
Toasting another great day!
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